Bloomingdale gets sweeter
Grassroots Gourmet
brings cupcakes and conscience to an empty storefront
by Jacquelyn Bengfort
“Our contractor promised us we’re
going to laugh,” said Jamilyah Smith-Kanze, speaking of the labyrinthine
process of establishing a business in the District three weeks before the
opening of the new Grassroots Gourmet bakery on Rhode Island Avenue in
Bloomingdale. “So, we’re looking forward to that.”
While it
may not yet have been quite time for laughter on November 21, Smith-Kanze and
Sara Fatell, one of the original founders of Grassroots Gourmet in 2009, were
all smiles as they opened their doors for the first time.
As they
served rugelach, crumb cake, and cookies to a constant stream of friends and
neighbors, both of the wormen—who are cousins as well as business
partners—seemed in a celebratory mood. Despite a last-minute problem with their
health inspection (they had failed to install a food disposal unit in their
gorgeous and pristine new kitchen), they succeeded in their goal of opening
before Thanksgiving, thanks in part to a steel cutter who “rolled up to the
sidewalk at 9 [p.m.] in a truck like it could get anything done,” said
Smith-Kanze with a grin.
Baking, and beyond
Fatell founded
Grassroots Gourmet as a catering service, providing baked goods to non-profit
groups around the city. “I never wanted a storefront,” she confessed, but
eventually realized that if she wanted to stop borrowing kitchens to fulfill
orders she would need to commit to establishing a bakery.
While
Fatell and Smith-Kanze looked all over the city for a suitable location, they
were thrilled to see a “For Lease” sign go up in the window of a defunct
laundromat in their own neighborhood.
The space,
which was made over by Lauren Winter, the architect responsible for neighboring
Boundary Stone, is “a kitchen to grow into,” said Fatell.
Catering
remains the cornerstone of their business model. Cupcakes and miniature pies
may tempt in passersby, but once they are inside they can order from a much larger
menu of items that can be baked fresh on request.
An affair of the
heart
The wall of
family photographs immediately signals customers that they have entered a
business that is more than just a money-making venture to its owners. Fatell
and Smith-Kanze celebrate their shared roots with recipes passed down by aunts
and grandmothers, and their enthusiasm infuses the storefront with an
atmosphere of authenticity.
It’s all
evidence of a business plan that places social responsibility and
neighborliness on equal footing with revenue. Like many of DC’s young
entrepreneurs, the women want to be more than simply profitable.
“We want to
know our customers,” said Fatell. “We want to bake the cake for your wedding,
for your child’s first birthday.” In a nod to the many pet owners in
Bloomingdale, they plan to put out a water dish and add baked dog treats to the
menu.
They also
strive to source their ingredients and other business items from local vendors
whenever possible. They hope to partner with local farmers now that they have
the space to freeze locally produced produce in season. Their caramel comes
from Baltimore, and their marshmallows are made in small batches by a local
husband-and-wife team. “We want to build a vendor list [that’s] like a
community,” said the women in an email. They actively look to partner with
women- and minority-owned and family-run businesses.
Plans for the future
On opening
day, one customer inquires about bread. “Not yet,” said Fatell. “Maybe one
day.”
Smith-Kanze
admits to a dream scenario: “Maybe one day we’ll take a vacation.”
For now,
though, both Fatell and Smith-Kanze are clearly thrilled to be open for
business in their new location, as Fatell greets customers with a booming “Morning,
neighbors!”
With a note
of triumph, she adds, “This is not a pop-up, friends. We will be here.”
Grassroots Gourmet
104 Rhode Island Avenue NW
Tuesday-Friday 8 a.m.-7 p.m., Saturday 9 a.m.-3 p.m., Sunday
10 a.m.-2 p.m.
Jacquelyn Bengfort is
a freelance and fiction writer working in Bloomingdale. You can read more of
her work at www.jacib.com.
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